That at 22, bieber clothes is the middle of polemic debates about his style is one thing of the surprise. He’s not revealing giant swaths of skin, donning outrageous meat-covered coats, as well as flaunting particularly controversial slogans across his shirts. Instead, he has a penchant for tees that nearly scrape his knees, exaggerated layering, and skater boy clothes — not exactly tabloid fodder.

Yet nevertheless, he’s drawn considerable attention (and backlash) for additional recent looks, much like the Nirvana band T-shirt by L.A. brand Fear of God that he wore to the American Music Awards late just last year. Critics were scathing: the reigning prince of pop dares being related to the storied grunge band?

Longtime stylist Karla Welch, who first signed on to work with Bieber on his Believe Tour in 2012, has a explanation for all the hoopla: It’s a proof of the singer’s growing style influence. “He’s been pushing men’s fashion during the last five-years,” she says. “If you look at the start of the Believe Tour, he was getting heat for that drop-crotch pants and super long T-shirts. The good news is, if you get to any menswear store, the thing is those styles reflected.” Much like Bieber, Welch doesn’t “value negative feedback,” she says. “Haters gonna hate.”

Despite the Nirvana controversy, Welch went back to Concern with God and worked with the designer Jerry Lorenzo on five searches for Bieber’s current Purpose Tour, which kicked off Wednesday night (March 9) in Seattle. “We now have been buying [Jerry’s] stuff during the last 2 yrs; it’s been an incredibly fun process working [together],” Welch says in the custom-made denim and tees. Interspersed will likely be Raf Simons pieces (“Justin is very into Raf lately”), Adidas shoes, and justin bieber jacket, like thigh-skimming T-shirts for layering. “I could possibly start to see the looks changing from concert to concert together with the way Justin chooses to style them,” Welch adds.

Though certain technical adjustments happen to be designed to the tour wardrobe, including zippers, gussets and reinforcements for quick changes (he has lower than 1 minute to change backstage), the style is not so different than exactly what the singer sports regularly on Instagram. “It’s more street grunge using a very vintage skater feel,” Welch describes. “I found myself residing in Vancouver during the grunge era — I used to decline to Seattle to watch Pearl Jam play — and i also always loved how those stoner boys looked. That’s bieeber we started doing with all the Purpose videos now with all the tour. It’s very undone.” The show’s backup dancers, who channel a similarly relaxed aesthetic, are outfitted in apparel by Calvin Klein, with whom justin bieber shirt has a ongoing campaign deal with.

Raised in Powell River, British Columbia, Canadian heritage is an asset for Welch in the first place. “We just met and clicked,” the stylist says of Bieber, who matured in Stratford, Ontario. “Canadians inherently love Canadians; that’s for ages been a bond. Canadians are super nationalists,” she adds, chuckling. Though Welch is commonly tending for the red-carpet wardrobes of universally adored actresses like Amy Poehler and Olivia Wilde, she says there have been no hesitations about dealing with a much more controversial pop star like a client. “When you tune in to everything the press has got to say, you’re losing at life,” she says, noting that now more than ever both have a “totally collaborative” relationship. “Justin enjoys this process.”